Chiang Rai to Pai: Direct Van or via Chiang Mai?
A practical comparison of shared through-vans, the two-leg connection through Chiang Mai and the only genuinely door-to-door nonstop option.
Chiang Rai to Pai looks like a simple westbound journey on a map. Public transport works differently. The dependable scheduled network runs south-west from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai, then north-west through the mountains to Pai. Some booking pages also sell a single “direct” or through-ticket, but that description can refer to one booking rather than one vehicle.
That distinction changes the decision. A through-ticket can remove the need to coordinate two purchases, yet it may still involve a handover, a different van or a wait in Chiang Mai. Booking the GreenBus and Prempracha legs separately gives you clearer operator information and more departure choice, although you carry the missed-connection risk yourself. A private transfer is the straightforward answer when “direct” must mean the same car from hotel to hotel.
This guide compares the options using current operator timetables, booking-platform examples, terminal information and realistic connection buffers. Schedules, availability and planning prices were checked on 17 September 2026; the ticket issued for your date remains the final authority.
Via Chiang Mai
Published operator timetables, frequent departures and a clear backup plan make this the safest default for budget travellers.
Through-ticket van
Useful when a dated departure is available and the voucher clearly explains pickup, handover, luggage and the Pai drop-off.
Separate tickets
You can choose GreenBus class and a later Pai departure, but the protection between independently booked legs is yours.
Ticket versus vehicle
One confirmation does not automatically mean one van. Ask whether passengers or luggage change vehicles in Chiang Mai.
Chiang Rai to Pai options compared
The comparison is ordered by how much connection handling the traveller must do, not by commission or headline speed. Times include realistic scheduled travel but local hotel transfers can add more. Planning prices in the table were checked on 17 September 2026.
The four workable routes
| Option | Planning time | Planning cost | Best for | Main trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Separate GreenBus + Prempracha tickets | About 7½–9h terminal to terminal with a sensible buffer | Roughly THB 490–665 per person | Budget travellers who want transparent operators and departure choice | Independent tickets usually do not protect a missed connection |
| Shared through-ticket or van listing | Common dated examples around 6–8h | Broadly THB 900–2,300 per person across current examples | Travellers who value one booking and hotel pickup or a defined meeting point | “Direct” may include a vehicle change, long pickup circuit or luggage charge |
| Private car or van | About 5½–6½h door to door before optional stops | From about THB 5,578 per vehicle; larger options can exceed THB 10,000 | Families, groups, bulky luggage, flexible breaks and true nonstop travel | High total cost, particularly for one traveller |
| Self-drive rental car | About 5½–7h before sightseeing or weather delays | Rental, fuel, insurance and one-way terms vary | Experienced, correctly licensed drivers who want a multi-day road trip | Mountain curves, rain, fatigue and insurance conditions require serious attention |
The separate-ticket range combines current GreenBus examples with Prempracha’s published THB 220 van or THB 260 minibus fare. Shared and private ranges reflect live commercial listings checked on the review date; pickup zone, vehicle type, luggage and platform fees can change the total.
What the route pattern means
Why the practical route bends through Chiang Mai
Geography is only half the story
Chiang Rai and Pai sit in different northern valleys. The road distance used by current route listings is roughly 288 kilometres, but the transport network is not designed around a high-frequency city-to-city corridor between them. Chiang Rai has a strong scheduled link to Chiang Mai, while Pai’s established public-transport link also starts from Chiang Mai. Joining those two corridors is therefore more reliable than assuming a frequent nonstop bus exists.
The first leg uses the comparatively broad Chiang Rai–Chiang Mai road. The second leaves the Chiang Mai area towards Mae Malai and then follows the sustained bends of Route 1095 into Pai. Journey time is shaped by terminal procedures, luggage loading, traffic, weather and the mountain section, not only the map distance.
Why one long van is not automatically better
A single shared vehicle avoids a formal terminal change, although it also concentrates six or more hours in one seat. A coordinated change at Chiang Mai can provide a toilet, food and movement break before the most winding section. Conversely, anyone with mobility limitations or several cases may reasonably prefer not to unload and reboard.
What a “direct van” can mean on this route
Nonstop, same vehicle and through-ticket are different promises
A genuinely nonstop private transfer collects you in Chiang Rai and keeps the same passengers, driver and vehicle until Pai, apart from rest stops. A shared listing described as direct can mean something less literal: one checkout, coordinated transport and an arrival in Pai without the passenger buying another ticket. The operating plan may still include a vehicle change or consolidation in Chiang Mai.
Current booking pages list shared van products with journey estimates around six to eight hours, yet availability changes by date. On the 17 September 2026 check, the general Chiang Rai–Pai page showed route categories and historical pricing information but did not present a shared departure for every searched date. That is why a generic route summary should never be treated as proof that your chosen day has a suitable van.
Four questions to ask before paying
This checklist is ordered by the details most likely to change the journey, rather than by operator preference.
- Will I remain in the same vehicle from Chiang Rai to Pai?
- If there is a handover, where is it and who transfers the luggage?
- Is pickup from my hotel, a central meeting point or a bus terminal?
- What is the included luggage allowance and the charge for an extra seat or large case?
Chiang Rai to Pai via Chiang Mai: the dependable two-leg plan
Leg 1: Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai by GreenBus
GreenBus’s official timetable, marked as last updated on 15 August 2026, lists everyday Chiang Rai departures at 07:30, 08:00, 08:30, 10:00, 12:00, 12:30, 13:30, 16:00, 18:00 and 18:30, with additional day-specific services. Current route listings commonly show about 3 hours 20 minutes for faster classes and around 3 hours 45 minutes for express examples. Always use the time printed on the final ticket. [1]
Planning fares for this leg were roughly THB 270–405 on the 17 September 2026 check, depending on class and sales channel. GreenBus identifies FairFair counters and the FairFair website as purchase channels, while the linked 12Go search can be useful for comparing current inventory and timing. [7] [14]
Compare Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai departures
Check the actual date, operator, class, departure terminal and arrival terminal before matching an onward Pai van.
Leg 2: Chiang Mai to Pai by Prempracha
Prempracha’s timetable reviewed 15 August 2026 lists Chiang Mai departures to Pai at hourly intervals from 06:30 through 17:30, with an approximate journey time of three hours. Its published per-seat fares were THB 220 for a route 612 van and THB 260 for a minibus when checked on 17 September 2026. [2]
The operator identifies Chiang Mai Arcade as the boarding point for route 612. “Arcade” is a transport complex rather than a guarantee that both legs use the same bay or building. Read the exact boarding instructions and ask staff rather than following an old blog photograph. [3]
Current schedule examples and safer connection windows
The examples below are arranged by Chiang Rai departure time. They combine the official departure lists with common journey durations and a 60–90 minute transfer allowance. They are planning models checked on 17 September 2026, not guaranteed itineraries.
| Leave Chiang Rai | Likely Chiang Mai window | Safer Pai departure | Likely Pai arrival | Planning comment |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 07:30 | About 10:50–11:30 | 12:30 or 13:30 | About 15:30–16:30 | Strong buffer and several fallback vans |
| 08:00 | About 11:20–11:45 | 13:00 or 13:30 | About 16:00–16:30 | Good balance when the faster GreenBus class is available |
| 08:30 | About 11:50–12:15 | 13:30 or 14:30 | About 16:30–17:30 | Still comfortable if the first leg runs close to time |
| 10:00 | About 13:20–13:45 | 15:00 or 15:30 | About 18:00–18:30 | Viable, but arrival is later and daylight margin is smaller |
| 12:00 or later | Late afternoon onward | Potentially the final vans | Evening | Too fragile for independently booked same-day tickets |
The operator schedules list departures rather than guaranteeing these exact arrival windows. Roadworks, rain, boarding delays and class-specific running times can move the connection. Book the later van if losing an hour is preferable to losing the whole ticket.
The real cost: ticket price versus the whole transfer
The cost comparison is grouped by unavoidable components rather than the cheapest advertised headline. All figures below are planning ranges checked on 17 September 2026.
| Cost component | Separate tickets | Shared through-service | Private vehicle | What changes it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main transport | About THB 490–665 | About THB 900–2,300 | About THB 5,578–10,000+ | Class, operator, vehicle, date and pickup zone |
| Chiang Rai local transfer | Usually extra | May be included | Normally included in quoted zone | Hotel distance and pickup terms |
| Chiang Mai transfer | Often a walk within Arcade, but verify | Usually coordinated | Not applicable | Exact buildings and operator meeting point |
| Pai local transfer | May be extra | Sometimes hotel drop-off | Normally included in quoted zone | Outlying resort or late arrival |
| Luggage | Published allowance applies | Extra bag or seat may be charged | Vehicle capacity still matters | Case count, size and supplier rules |
When a private transfer starts to make sense
For one person, the price gap is substantial. For four travellers sharing a vehicle, the per-person difference narrows, especially after adding local transfers and the value of five or six hours without a terminal change. The group still needs a vehicle confirmed for the actual luggage, not merely the passenger count.
Do not value a connection at zero
Separate tickets are inexpensive because the traveller supplies the coordination. A missed van can create a replacement ticket, an unplanned Chiang Mai night and two hotel changes. That does not make the budget plan poor value; it explains why the buffer belongs in the calculation.
Changing at Chiang Mai Arcade without panic
Before leaving Chiang Rai
Save both tickets offline, screenshot the departure address and keep the operator names visible. “Chiang Mai Arcade” covers neighbouring terminal areas and private counters, so the building number or map pin matters. Put medication, passport, phone, charger and valuables in the cabin bag rather than the luggage hold.
On arrival in Chiang Mai
Collect the checked bag before looking for the Pai vehicle. Show the onward voucher to a staffed information or ticket counter and ask for the exact platform. Do not follow a driver who only calls out “Pai” unless the vehicle and operator match the booking. A short walk may be all that is required, but a ticket using an off-site private office can need a local ride.
Use the buffer properly
First confirm the boarding point, then use the remaining time for a toilet, water and a light meal. Leaving the complex for a sit-down lunch before locating the van creates avoidable stress. Return to the stated meeting point earlier than the ticket requires because vans may load luggage before departure.
How to book the journey step by step
The sequence below is arranged to protect the least flexible part first. It is a workflow, not a ranking of sellers.
- Search the exact Chiang Rai to Pai date for a clear shared through-service.
- If the terms are vague or no suitable shared trip appears, check the Chiang Mai to Pai leg next because the last daily departure creates the hard limit.
- Choose a GreenBus departure that reaches Chiang Mai at least 60–90 minutes before the Pai van.
- Match passenger names and luggage rules across both bookings.
- Verify Chiang Rai pickup, Chiang Mai boarding point and Pai drop-off on the final vouchers.
- Save confirmations offline and reconfirm when travelling during a holiday, heavy rain or a delayed publication period.
Check Chiang Mai to Pai inventory first
The mountain van’s final departure limits the whole same-day plan. Compare the exact boarding point and do not assume every seller uses the same Arcade counter.
Keep data available on transfer day
A working connection helps with map pins, driver messages and rebooking if the first leg slips. An eSIM can be installed before travel, although the phone must support it and the data plan should be checked against the trip length.
Luggage, comfort and motion sickness
Published luggage rules are not theoretical
Prempracha’s current FAQ says each passenger may bring no more than two pieces with a combined weight of no more than 15 kilograms and advises contacting staff about special luggage. That limit matters because shared vans have little spare floor and aisle space. Check the latest rule on your booking rather than assuming an airline-sized case is automatically accepted. [4]
Other shared suppliers set their own conditions. Reverse-route reviews mention extra luggage charges and crowded seating, which is another reason to obtain written terms before travel. If a large suitcase requires an extra seat, compare the revised total with a private transfer rather than discovering the charge at boarding.
Prepare for the mountain section
Prempracha’s Pai guide describes sustained curves and tells travellers prone to motion sickness to prepare in advance. Choose a forward-facing seat near the front where possible, eat lightly, avoid reading and keep water accessible. Use only medication that is suitable for you, following a pharmacist or clinician’s advice. [5]
Private transfer: the genuinely direct option
What the premium buys
A private car or van can collect at a Chiang Rai hotel, travel without a passenger handover and finish at the Pai accommodation. Current 12Go examples began around THB 5,578 per vehicle on the 17 September 2026 check, while larger or premium options exceeded THB 10,000. The actual quote depends on vehicle size, pickup zone, waiting, child seats, extra stops and the supplier’s cancellation terms. [6]
The practical gain is control: a chosen pickup time, planned rest stops, luggage space and no independently timed connection. The road still takes around six hours and remains winding. A private vehicle removes the terminal problem, not the geography.
Questions for the written quotation
This list is organised by items that most often create extra charges or unsuitable vehicles.
- Total price for the exact pickup and Pai hotel.
- Vehicle model or capacity for passengers and cases.
- Included waiting time, rest stops and any sightseeing stop.
- Child-seat availability and confirmation of seat belts.
- Cancellation terms, emergency contact and payment method.
Should you self-drive from Chiang Rai to Pai?
Only when the road trip is part of the holiday
A rental car can turn the transfer into a flexible northern road trip, but it is not a sensible shortcut for an inexperienced driver who simply dislikes changing buses. The journey combines a long day, unfamiliar road conventions and a sustained mountain section. Driving after a flight, after dark or during heavy rain increases the burden.
Licence and insurance checks for UK travellers
Current FCDO advice says UK drivers need both a UK driving licence and the 1968 version of the International Driving Permit. It also warns that Thailand has a high number of road accidents and that driving without a valid licence can invalidate insurance. Travellers of other nationalities should check their own government and insurer requirements. [10]
Confirm that the rental permits the intended route, that one-way return terms are workable and that the insurance covers the named driver and vehicle. A scooter is not a cheaper version of the same plan: it requires the correct motorcycle entitlement, protective equipment, experience and insurance.
Weather, rain, haze and seasonal planning
Rain changes connections before it cancels them
FCDO guidance notes that heavy rainfall can cause flash flooding, landslides and transport disruption, particularly in northern and mountainous areas, and advises monitoring the Thai Meteorological Department. That does not mean every wet-season journey is unsafe. It means a minimal transfer window and a non-refundable evening commitment in Pai are poor combinations. [10]
Check the TMD forecast for Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son Province on the day before travel. Conditions can differ across the three valleys and the mountain road. During active warnings, ask the operator whether the service is running normally and avoid self-driving merely to preserve a timetable.
Haze can change the value of the trip
Northern air quality can deteriorate during the burning and hot-season period. Check Air4Thai rather than relying on a distant mountain view in a hotel photograph. If readings are poor, reduce outdoor exposure and reconsider a route built around viewpoints or open-window scooter travel.
Which option suits your traveller type?
The groupings below are based on the practical constraint that matters most, not a universal ranking.
| Traveller | Start with | Why it fits | Check before booking |
|---|---|---|---|
| Solo budget traveller | GreenBus + Prempracha | Lowest transparent cost and several possible departures | Connection buffer and baggage allowance |
| Couple with cabin-size bags | Separate tickets or clear through-ticket | Choice between lowest cost and one-booking convenience | Whether the shared service changes vehicles |
| Family with children | Private transfer | Control over breaks, luggage and hotel-to-hotel timing | Correct child restraints confirmed in writing |
| Traveller prone to motion sickness | Two legs with a proper Chiang Mai break | Opportunity to reset before Route 1095 | Forward seat request and suitable medication |
| Large luggage or mobility needs | Private vehicle or fully confirmed shared service | Avoids uncertain handling and terminal movement | Vehicle capacity and step/access arrangements |
| Road-trip enthusiast | Rental car | Stops and pace become part of the itinerary | Licence, IDP, insurance, weather and daylight |
Three realistic journey plans
Plan A: lowest-cost same-day connection
Stay near central Chiang Rai the night before. Take an early GreenBus, target at least a 75-minute Arcade connection and reserve an early-afternoon Prempracha service. Keep the Pai evening empty apart from check-in and dinner. This plan suits travellers who can handle two terminals and accept that independently booked tickets carry their own risk.
Plan B: one night in Chiang Mai
Travel from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai after breakfast, leave the luggage at a hotel near Arcade or the chosen city base, and continue to Pai the next morning. The journey becomes two manageable half-days, and the Chiang Mai stop can be useful rather than dead time. It also removes the temptation to book a fragile final-van connection.
Plan C: private transfer with one planned break
Arrange a morning hotel pickup, confirm a suitable vehicle and agree one or two comfort stops without turning the transfer into an overfilled sightseeing day. Reach Pai in daylight, settle in and retain energy for the following morning. This plan is strongest for a small group, family or traveller carrying awkward luggage.
Pros and cons of each route
These points are compiled from current operator schedules, luggage conditions, route geometry and booking terms; they are grouped by option rather than ranked.
Via Chiang Mai — advantages
- Published timetables from established route operators.
- Multiple departures provide fallback choices.
- Separate leg can break up a long van day.
- Usually the lowest total ticket cost.
- Easy to turn Chiang Mai into an overnight stop.
Via Chiang Mai — disadvantages
- Missed-connection risk on separate bookings.
- Luggage must be collected and moved.
- Terminal names and meeting points require attention.
- Hotel-to-hotel journey can occupy most of the day.
Shared through-service — advantages
- One confirmation and coordinated itinerary.
- Hotel pickup or drop-off may be included.
- Can be faster than building a large independent buffer.
- Useful when the operator clearly guarantees the handover.
Shared through-service — disadvantages
- Availability can disappear on the required date.
- “Direct” may still include a vehicle change.
- Luggage rules and meeting points vary by supplier.
- Long continuous time in a shared van.
Private transfer — advantages
- True door-to-door journey in one vehicle.
- Flexible pickup, rest stops and luggage handling.
- Per-person cost improves for a group.
- Easiest option for children or mobility needs.
Private transfer — disadvantages
- Highest total price.
- Vehicle quality and inclusions need confirmation.
- The winding road and weather still apply.
- Optional stops can make an already long day longer.
Common mistakes to avoid
The mistakes are ordered by the likelihood of disrupting the journey, with the most consequential first.
Assuming “direct” means no vehicle change
Confirm the operating plan in writing. One booking can still be a coordinated connection.
Buying the Chiang Rai bus before checking the last Pai van
The second leg creates the deadline. Secure or at least verify it first.
Using a 20-minute Arcade connection
Arrival, luggage collection and finding another bay take longer than a map suggests. Build 60–90 minutes.
Ignoring the exact terminal or meeting point
“Arcade”, a hotel pickup and a private office are not interchangeable. Follow the final voucher.
Not declaring a large suitcase
Van capacity is limited, and an operator may require an extra charge or seat. Ask before departure day.
Booking a Pai tour for arrival evening
Keep the evening flexible. Rain or a delayed first leg can move the arrival by hours.
Choosing a late self-drive to save a hotel night
The mountain section is not the place to learn unfamiliar roads in darkness or heavy rain.
Chiang Rai to Pai FAQs
Route and booking questions
Is there a direct bus from Chiang Rai to Pai?
There is no dependable high-frequency public coach comparable with the Chiang Rai–Chiang Mai or Chiang Mai–Pai corridors. Booking platforms may show shared through-products, but the service type and availability vary by date. The reliable public-transport plan is normally GreenBus to Chiang Mai followed by a Pai van.
Does a direct van stay in the same vehicle?
Not necessarily. “Direct” can describe one booking or coordinated journey. Ask the supplier whether passengers and luggage change vehicles in Chiang Mai and keep the written answer.
How long does Chiang Rai to Pai take?
Shared through-services commonly advertise around six to eight hours. A sensible separate-ticket plan usually takes about seven and a half to nine hours between terminals, while a private vehicle commonly needs about five and a half to six and a half hours before optional stops.
How much is the journey?
Planning examples checked on 17 September 2026 put separate GreenBus and Prempracha tickets at roughly THB 490–665 per person. Shared through-products broadly ranged from about THB 900–2,300 per person, while private vehicles started around THB 5,578 and could exceed THB 10,000.
Terminals and same-day connection questions
Where does the GreenBus leave in Chiang Rai?
Current route listings commonly use Chiang Rai Bus Terminal 1 for Chiang Mai services, but the terminal printed on the actual ticket controls the journey. Arrive early enough to locate the operator counter and bay.
Where do Pai vans leave in Chiang Mai?
Prempracha identifies Chiang Mai Arcade for route 612. The exact building, bay or counter should be taken from the current ticket because the Arcade complex contains neighbouring terminal areas and other operators may use different offices.
How much connection time should I allow?
Allow at least 60–90 minutes between independently booked legs. Choose more during heavy rain, a holiday or when the first ticket uses a slower service class.
Can I travel from Chiang Rai to Pai in one day?
Yes. Start early and reserve the onward Pai leg. Expect the transfer to consume most of the day and keep the first Pai evening free.
Comfort, luggage and driving questions
What is the latest Chiang Mai to Pai van?
Prempracha’s timetable reviewed 15 August 2026 listed 17:30 as the final Chiang Mai departure. Recheck the operator and your travel date because schedules can change.
Can I take a large suitcase?
Prempracha’s current general rule is no more than two pieces with a combined weight of 15 kilograms per passenger. Other suppliers use different limits. Declare oversized luggage before purchase and ask whether an extra seat or fee is required.
Is the road bad for motion sickness?
The Chiang Mai–Pai section has sustained curves. Sit near the front when possible, eat lightly, avoid reading and prepare suitable medication after checking with a pharmacist or clinician.
Is it safe to arrive in Pai after dark?
Scheduled services do arrive in the evening, but a daylight arrival is easier for finding accommodation and assessing local transport. Avoid driving the mountain road after dark when tired or inexperienced.
Private transfer, driving and advance-booking questions
How much is a private transfer?
Current 12Go examples checked on 17 September 2026 began around THB 5,578 per vehicle, with larger or premium options above THB 10,000. Confirm passenger and luggage capacity, pickup zone, stops and cancellation terms.
Should I rent a car instead?
A car suits an experienced, correctly licensed driver who wants a road trip. It is not simply a faster bus alternative. Check the 1968 IDP requirement for UK travellers, insurance, one-way rental terms, weather and daylight.
Can I stop overnight in Chiang Mai?
Yes, and it is often the most comfortable plan. It converts a fragile same-day connection into two straightforward journeys and can add a useful Chiang Mai evening or morning.
Should I book in advance?
Advance booking is sensible for weekends, Thai holidays, cool-season dates and travellers who need a specific connection. Reconfirm close to departure because a saved search result is not the same as an issued ticket.
My clear recommendation for Chiang Rai to Pai
For most solo travellers and couples, plan the journey via Chiang Mai. Book an early GreenBus, protect the transfer with at least 60–90 minutes and choose a Prempracha departure that leaves another fallback van later in the day. This route is not glamorous, but it is transparent, economical and supported by published operator timetables.
Choose a shared through-ticket when a suitable service appears for the exact date and the supplier clearly answers the same-vehicle, luggage and meeting-point questions. The convenience is real when the handover is genuinely coordinated; the label alone is not enough.
Choose a private transfer when avoiding a passenger change matters more than the lowest fare. Families, groups, travellers with mobility needs and people carrying several cases receive the clearest benefit. Whichever option you use, treat the day as a transfer day and let Pai begin properly the following morning.
Compare the route that matches your priorities
Use the exact date and read the full service details before paying. Recheck operator, pickup, luggage, handover and final drop-off.
Sources and fact-checking notes
Research was checked on 17 September 2026. Operator pages were used for published schedules, fares, stations and luggage rules. Booking platforms were used as dated evidence of current inventory, durations and planning prices, never as a promise that the same service will exist on another date.
- GreenBus: official bus schedule — marked latest update 15 August 2026.
- Prempracha timetable and fares — August 2026 Chiang Mai–Pai departures and per-seat fares.
- Stations and boarding points from Prempracha — route 612 uses Chiang Mai Arcade and Pai.
- Passenger FAQ from Prempracha — general luggage allowance and advance-booking guidance.
- Pai bus guide from Prempracha — winding-road and motion-sickness planning.
- 12Go: Chiang Rai to Pai listings — dated shared and private examples, journey ranges and route inventory.
- 12Go: Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai listings — journey-duration and fare examples.
- 12Go: Chiang Mai to Pai listings — current onward inventory and meeting-point comparison.
- Bookaway: Chiang Rai to Pai route — shared minivan duration and price cross-check.
- FCDO: Thailand safety and security — road travel, IDP, insurance and rainy-season disruption.
- Thai Meteorological Department: Mae Hong Son weather — official forecast and warning checks.
- Thailand Pollution Control Department: Air4Thai — current air-quality checks.
- 12Go: Pai to Chiang Rai listings and reviews — anecdotal evidence that some through services change vehicles in Chiang Mai.
- GreenBus: ticket-purchase channels — FairFair website and counters.
Illustrations in this article were created for Taylor’s Trailblazing Travels. Third-party photographs, where used, are credited beside the image or in the source list.
